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Heljan Transfer Table - Special



Here a description how I fought with my Heljan Transfer Table! I had a lot of problems with the accomplishment from Heljan. A lot of work was to do, to fix the problems.
I give an insight how to fix the problems and accordingly the solutions I found. At the end of this video you see a short video clip of my transfer table in action. For this video clip I use the movie function of my Nikon camera, so the quality ist not so good - sorry !

Created with MAGIX Video deluxe 17 Plus

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Views: 7,657
Added: 3 years
Runtime: 4:11
Comments: 25

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Comments:

Author Stevie B (1 month)
HI, Just purchased a brand new one of these,(Nov 2014) all set up and
immediately it is switched on, the control box displays > Heljan > A057 >
'C'
No matter what I do, I cannot get past the 'C' even without the transfer
table lead plugged in it displays the 'C' .. I assume this is defective and
needs to be returned ?
Please advise... if there is anything further I can do / check. ( yes the
bridge is in the correct orientation ) By the way your you tube vids are
super.. many thanks Stevie B

Author ithekid100 (10 months)
challenger. I have the transfer table but wiring it to my MRC advance
squared or to my MRC tech 2, with the bridge in the proper place and turned
the proper way, I end up with a C on the control box without any further
control. I have a list of things to check from Walthers, but would like
any info you can supply as to wiring and access to the bridge to check
continuity of the wires and current flow. If you can remember anything I
would certainly appreciate your help. Hope you still review this now and
then. efoy@centurytel.net

Author ithekid100 (10 months)
Thanks for the advice. I talked to Walthers and they gave me a checklist
for troubleshooting. Found one wire with broken solder connection to the
wiper in the bridge. The "C" means there is an open circuit. That did not
cure problem. Now going back in to check all connections for continuity
and hopefully another broken connection. Wish me luck, next step is send
it in to Walthers for repair that I'm sure will not be cheap. Later my
friend. Do you know what the minimum distance is between bridge stops as
I'm building engine house with Lunde Studios Quick Flats tha gives me 12
bays on each side of the table with the extension. Your video's are
wonderful and very helpful. Great Job! Eric

Author vogelrobert (3 years)
Congratulations! Your vidéo will be useful to me since I plan to buy that
transfer table, with the extension pit. Could you tell me what is the
(minimum) distance between the first and last track and the side of the pit
lips? Thanks, Robert

Author David Kirwin (3 years)
Thanks. See message I sent you.

Author challenger3999 (3 years)
@vogelrobert Hi Robert, I have an answer for the next days. I had to much
things to do and to less time ...

Author SpurH0Freak (3 years)
Hey super video. Thanks for your tips. I have bought this table here. Nice
Price and Service, there are to a additional pit. Greetings from modelfreak

Author ewsdneax61eaxe10 (3 years)
i didn't know that it's a pain to install that thing. i'm planning to get
one and install it on top of extruded foam and hopefully will be easier
that way. anyway thanks for the tip.

Author challenger3999 (3 years)
@gc53dfgc you´re right! I could send in the decoder for repair. Denmark
(Heljan) is not so far away from Austria. I can´t say if the decoder or the
control box or both conked out. I rewired the bridge completly new for my
needs. For using the originally control box and decoder I had to rewired
the bridge and I won' t to do that again. I easily use a new, orginally
wired Transfer Table Bridge on my layout. The wiring of the pit is original.

Author colliecandle (1 year)
See the real thing (traverser) at Swindon ex works (now the home of
'Steam') Well worth a visit

Author challenger3999 (3 years)
@davekirwin Hi, using DCC should not be a problem. Lenz is not a bad
system. Best of luck with your transfer table!

Author galat002 (2 years)
What size screws did you use?

Author EnricRoca (3 years)
Thanks for the idea to reduce dead travel. I must work on it this weekend.
You can see my transfer table in my channel. Best regards from Spain

Author galat002 (2 years)
I'm putting together a transfer table with two extensions and I wanted to
ask how you attached the aluminum H-beams to the pits? Thanks, Mark

Author gc53dfgc (3 years)
You can still send the destroyed decoder in for repairs so that you can use
it how it was originally designed to and use the jeryrigged decoder for now
till the new one comes.

Author challenger3999 (1 year)
Thank you for the tip!

Author challenger3999 (3 years)
@vogelrobert I'd made another transfer table video to answer your question,
look transfer table special-2.

Author challenger3999 (3 years)
@ewsdneax61eaxe10 mount the transfer table so that the mounting lip of the
pit is resting perfectly flat. That´s important, Make a cut-out in the
extruded foam and sink the transfer table in it. Be sure that bottom of the
pit shouldn´t had contact with the extruded foam.

Author challenger3999 (2 years)
Hi, I drilled holes in the pit and the H-beams. The H-beams were secured
with flat-head machine screws and hex nuts. I've countersink the holes in
the pit, insert the flat-head screws, the hex nuts secure the H-beams.

Author challenger3999 (2 years)
flat-head 2-56 1/2x0.86" ;-)

Author David Kirwin (3 years)
Thanks for the video, interesting stuff. I've just bought one and plan to
use DCC with it, I hope I don't have problems with my Lenz 100 set.

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