Videos


Pushing the Prusa Faster



The feed is set for 140mm/s with the perimeter feed at 80mm/s and travel speeds at 300mm/s

This is Greg's Wade accessible with MakerGear V3 hotend
Using Sprinter with Arduino and RAMPS v1.2
Host SW is Repsnapper

Have a look at what happened when I tried Repetier FW http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaydmdigital/8330930949/ I still use Marlin, but lover Repetier Host


Views: 41875
Added:
Runtime: 9:23
Comments: 25

Tags for this video:



Find more videos in the: "28"
Uploaded by:
See more videos uploaded by


Comments:

Author IsMaxize L.O.L ( ago)
i will see it now! :)

Author IsMaxize L.O.L ( ago)
Really bad quality

Author novachannel1981 ( ago)
the print looks like shit

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
My mistake. I was thinking of my other video. I switched to Marlin. To your
point, Sprinter did not offer jerk settings which gives a an s-curve to
acceleration and deceleration and the mass of the extruder and motor. I
have since moved to using a bowden tube extruder and use 400mm/s travels. I
no longer try to print at speeds much faster than 60mm/s though. Also, to
combat the rattle and teetering, I have been using Sorbathane bumpers under
the feet. Quiets everything and stop any movement.

Author WhiteSkull RG ( ago)
But video information ... you mention Sprinter. However, for speed you
print, the printer probably have fixed to the ground very well, because at
that speed the whole structure teeters, right?

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
Yes this is with Marlin. Keep in mind this is over 1yr old and the
firmwares have all improved. I still prefer Marlin though.

Author WhiteSkull RG ( ago)
And with Marlin you tried?

Author lawrence ogden ( ago)
great video

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
I hobbed my own using a 6mm tap and a jig (thing:1802 on thingiverse). I
also only use PLA which compresses less than ABS.

Author Nick Mazzanti ( ago)
What hobbed bolt are you running? I cannot seem to get mine to run very
fast without stripping the filament.

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
Yes. This is an old video. flickr.com/photos/jaydmdigital/8446820262

Author Glenn Lopez ( ago)
Have you tried utilizing a bowden cable system to get rid of that mass? The
less your moving objects weighs the faster you can print without your
printer doing the harlem dance. In my opinion heat the PLA to 200* and use
3 12v 40mm fans pointing towards the printed plastics to cool them down.

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
I am too. I used the Greg Frost updated parts. I'm sure those have been
improved too. github.com/search?q=prusa to find the one that's right for
you.

Author MrYendor1968 ( ago)
there is also a cold laser aswell, that could help it cool downm i was not
aware of it heat retaining property's ,, so that is the reson i said about
pre heating, but also you could co2 or liquid nitrogen as a fine spray???
im not shore im just throwing ideas up into the air.

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
Not really sure what answer you are looking for, but from my perspective,
the problem one faces is that the prior layer can sometimes retain the heat
longer than you want meaning you either have to slow down, or add a cooling
fan.

Author MrYendor1968 ( ago)
would you be able to use a laser to assist with surface fusing and pre
heating of workpice prior to addition with printer head

Author drazdziu15 ( ago)
Gdzie pchasz tego Prusa?

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
I was using Skeinforge, but I don't think I was using retract. Yes I
suppose it was messy, but good enough for a new part :) I now use marlin
and Slic3r and have retract at 1mm. Now when I go 300mm/s on travel, it
really is 300mm/s. Look for my more recent videos.

Author linagee ( ago)
Was there any retract on it? The end product looked a bit messy.

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
For this video I was running the PLA at 205C. Black PLA doesn't print that
well over 80mm/s for me, so I keep it at 60mm/s at 195C

Author Richard Gain ( ago)
What temperature are you running the hot end at when printing PLA at that
speed?

Author Jay Couture ( ago)
I have mine limited to 130mm IIRC. I've only ever printed anything that
tall though. The MG hotend is great,. The nozzel I use is .5mm, but I use a
small .28mm layer height now. The combo of SFACT and Marlin firmware works
really great for me.

Embed Video:

URL 
Link 

Search Video

Top Videos

Top 100 >>>

Videos

Analyse website